Powder coating
Last updated September 26, 2026
Powder coating is a durable colored finish for metal parts. A dry powder is sprayed onto the part with an electrostatic charge that makes it cling to the surface, then the part is baked in an oven. The powder melts and cures into a hard, continuous outer layer.
The result is thicker and tougher than paint, and it resists chipping, scratching, chemicals, UV, and weather better than most other finishes. It is a common choice for enclosures, outdoor equipment, brackets, and anything that needs to look good and take abuse.
Powder coat vs anodizing
Both add color to metal parts, but they behave differently:
- Powder coat is a layer on top of the metal. It is opaque, so it hides the surface underneath completely, including tool marks. Colors are exact and UV-stable.
- Anodizing is a conversion of the aluminum surface itself. It is thin, slightly metallic looking, and does not hide tool marks. It adds less size to the part.
Choose powder coat when you want a precise, opaque color and maximum durability. Choose anodizing when you want a metallic look, tighter dimensions, or a thinner layer on aluminum.
Picking a color
When you select powder coating in the quote editor, you pick the color from a Pantone/RAL picker. Colors are stored in a canonical form, for example 180 C for a Pantone color.
A few practical notes:
- Use the picker rather than typing a color name in free text. Names like “red” are ambiguous; codes are not.
- If you import a BOM file, the same canonical color form is expected. The import normalizes common variations to the canonical form, so
Pantone 180Cand180 Cresolve to the same finish. See Multi-part uploads and BOM import. - RAL codes are the other supported system. If your design documentation specifies a RAL color, enter that code directly.
Thickness and tolerances
Powder coating adds a noticeable layer of material, typically much thicker than anodizing. That has consequences:
- Mating surfaces, press fits, and tight bores can go out of fit once coated.
- Threads can fill in and bind.
If your part has precision features, plan for masking (below) or reconsider whether powder coat suits those surfaces. For how coating interacts with tolerance choices, see Tolerances explained.
Masking
Masking means covering specific areas of the part before coating so they stay bare metal. You will want masking for:
- Threaded holes and studs
- Grounding or electrical contact points (the cured coating is an insulator)
- Precision bores, shafts, and mating faces
- Surfaces that must stay conductive
If your part needs masked areas, note them when you configure the part, or flag them when requesting a custom quote for complex cases. Unspecified, the whole part gets coated.
Durability in use
Powder coat holds up well outdoors and in industrial settings: it resists UV fading, moisture, most chemicals, and impact better than wet paint. It can still be scratched through by sharp edges or abraded at high-friction contact points. For surfaces that see constant sliding wear, a thin hard coating like PVD is the better tool.
Cost and lead time
Powder coating adds a per-part cost and extra days, since parts go through blasting or prep, spraying, and oven curing after machining. The unit price in the quote table updates as soon as you select the finish and color, and the batch lead time follows the longest part. See Lead times for how batch timing works.
When to choose powder coating
- The part needs a specific, opaque color that must match a brand or spec
- The part lives outdoors or in a harsh environment
- Impact and chip resistance matter more than tight dimensions
- The surface underneath is not pretty and you want it hidden